Cambodia - now, as the tone of the world softens

The three pieces immediately above are in safekeeping at the National Museum. Many of the temples are being rebuilt and the goal is retain its walls where they have been found.

Agreed. The past can be a little blurry sometimes.

This temple complex stole my heart. The pink sandstone used to build the temples at nearby Banteay Srei allowed more intricate carvings and is recognized as the finest craftsmanship. 

These reliefs are at Angkor Wat. People pass by slowly, studying them. Why does one want to follow the story line of the epics carved into its walls? Well, because like in the stories of the gods in Hindu theology, they reveal timeless lessons. Human nature is human nature, and while it may seem that we have made some progress in overcoming powerlust, aggression and brutality, there is ample evidence in news headlines today that on the whole, we are as primitive as we have ever been. The stories and their moral lessons still resonate. They are as relevant to human life today as they were when carved. 

The most famous “churning of the ocean of milk” relief underlies the Cambodian understanding of the cosmic order today. It shows devas (gods) and asuras (demons) pulling a cosmic serpent in opposite directions to stabilize the universe and produce order.  The point is that the universe is dynamic and precarious. Unseen forces directly affect outcomes and yet balance must be maintained. 

Cambodians, and in fact many others across the globe, recognize a pattern in energy levels in the waxing and waning of the moon. This recognition is helpful in knowing how best to behave in alignment with the forces governing life. Many here follow the Khmer lunar calendar. Timing is everything. One can check phone apps like the Khmer Lunar Calendar for the best days for socializing, for starting new projects and the days for laying low. The cosmos, time, fate and human life are inseparable. 

It is a bit like Taoism in that the Khmer culture believes in a universe comprised of the flow of energies. But Taoism is a more “go with the flow” sort of thinking, while the Khmer world view takes a deep dive, personalizing the experience. Sure, go with the flow, but what does that mean for you?  Who are you? And how specifically, should you behave to stay in alignment with the flow, given your personal quirks and take on life. First, consider that the flow of your life path is governed by tendencies you were born into. For example, your birth day of the week will be a power day for you always. If you were born on a Thursday, you’ve got more power to work with on Thursdays. A Khmer astrological reading will examine too how your past (Buddhist karma) actions are shaping present conditions. How does one know? By looking to recurring obstacles you experience. An astrologer, common and present in the culture, will look to what is going on with you, considering this context and a few other variables. The astrologer will also consider lunar patterns and animism influences - that is, local spirits that may be affecting outcomes, and personal numerology, pattern recognition within repetitive or missing numbers in various areas of your life, personal patterns - your luck cycles, and your current vulnerability. The advice will specifically relate to this cumulation of variables. The goal is essentially: respect what’s already influencing your life and don’t provoke it. 

Angkor Wat reveals the layers of cosmology internalized by Cambodians over the years. Animism, the belief that everything around us is alive, the stones, the trees, the rivers, followed by Hinduism with its many named gods, a few of them like Shiva simply going by another name, and then Buddhism, which accepted the still-prevalent preceding beliefs into its fold. All of these beliefs are carved into the temple stones, front and center and revealed by modern practice at its active shrines. The world view is distinctly Cambodian. They took from each belief system what felt like the right way of navigating their particular universe. The people here have been subjected to a good deal of pain from invasions and even genocide. Too, the present economy is a tough one. 

Spiritual beliefs reflect a way of processing history and a framework for a path forward. The population here also includes those of Chinese descent and Muslims, both groups arriving through maritime trade and maintaining their identity as such over hundreds of years. Still, they are Cambodian now as well. And have endured what Cambodians have endured. Although well known and nearby, I did not visit the Killing Fields where two million people were murdered during the relatively recent Khmer Rouge rule and tossed into mass graves. Of course these cursory allusions are insufficient, so here is a brief history of Cambodia.

The earliest that is known of the kingdom here is the state of Funan, a trading civilzation active from the 1st to the 6th century. Wealth, political ideas, Hinduism, and Sanskrit and Indian languages all came along with the traders. People stayed. From the 6th to the 8th century Funan evolved into Chennai, a more land-based Khmer power. Early temple building began and along with that, internal divisions that weakened the Chennai state. In 802, the Khmer Empire was birthed when King Jayavarman II declared divine kingship. It seems that the people went along, and thus began a powerful, unified kingdom centered at Angkor. It grew over the next four centuries to become one of the largest empires in the world. This became known as “the era of great kings.” 

Wouldn’t that be a refreshing context within which to live? Clearly, not about to happen.

These leaders directed the monumental architecture of the Angkor complex and the infrastructure to support the growing population. Religious beliefs shifted over this time from Hinduism to Mahayana Buddhism (emphasis on personal liberation) to Theravada Buddhism (emphasis on universal compassion wherein the goal shifted from individually reaching nirvana, to becoming a bodhisattva, someone who delays full enlightenment to help all beings). Theravada reshaped society and continues to be the dominant religion today. 

This shrine, an active worship space in the Baphuon temple illustrates the shift, the layering-on of cosmologies over time.

This part of the temple was originally the sanctum of a Shiva lingum. It was built to emulate the central axis of the universe where the divine intersects with humanity, the spiritual center of the Hindu temple. A sacred space remains a sacred space no matter how it is interpreted and this tableau illustrates the shift from Hinduism to Buddhism. The golden parasol represents spiritual authority and protection of the dharma, the Buddhist teachings. The offerings are part of everyday Cambodian devotional practice. Incense smoke helps prayers rise to the spiritual realm, a practice from animism worship. The flame illustrates light overcoming ignorance, a theme in both Hinduism and Buddhism. The Hindi Diwali celebration is entirely dedicated to this theme. The lotus flowers are for purity and enlightenment. And money offerings to the temples and spirits (offerings are even older animistic beliefs that have not only survived, but thrived) help the giver accumulate merit.

Angkor declined over the 13th to the 15th centuries due to invasion from Siam (Thailand), droughts and floods and other internal shifts. The capital moved south toward river trade routes, eventually settling in Phnom Penh. Angkor was abandoned. Between the 15th and 19th centuries, both neighbors, Vietnam and Siam invaded frequently, and the territory lost included the fertile Mekong Delta. Cambodia accepted protection from the French in 1863 to avoid losing any more land. And so it was a French protectorate until 1953. During this period borders were stabilized, restoration of Angkor began and infrastructure and administration was modernized. In 1953, Cambodia declared independence under the leadership of Norodom Sihanouk. It wasn’t long until the Vietnam War spilled into Cambodia creating instability. And then from 1975-1979 the Khmer Rouge attempted a radical agrarian revolution, killing nearly two million people, targeting intellectuals and emptying cities. In 1979, Vietnam intervention ended the Khmer Rouge rule. The UN became involved and the country began gradually recovering from the trauma. It is a process. Tens of thousands of Cambodians living today are amputees, having lost limbs from land mines and unexplored ordnance. Contamination is widespread and the risk still exists. Wandering into forests and fields is the riskiest, so 1/3 of recent victims have been children exploring.

Now that you have a general framework of the history, let’s turn our focus back to Angkor Wat.

Before moving on from Siem Reap, I’d like to note two things. One is that I was invited to an elegant wedding there, which was quite fun. Although I joined in, admittedly munching on a pig’s ear was a bit out of my comfort zone. And again, I cringed through my picture taken with the bride and groom. What I found most interesting is that the dancing, performed by all while perambulating in a circle, included hand gestures reminiscent of those of the Apsara dancers. Whether intentional or subconscious, I do not know. The second note is a shout out to my tuk tuk driver, who was very knowledgeable, good-natured and had a Rolls Royce tuk tuk, hands down the most deluxe model I encountered. Over the previous six months, I’d been in several tuk tuks with windows too shattered to see through and ones that frequently stalled out and needed a community to jump start. Everywhere, there was a subculture of tuk tuk drivers ready to help each other. These brothers were not shy about stopping in the middle of traffic to help each other out with directions, generally explaining patiently and at a leisurely place amidst the cacophony of horns and engines.

If you’re in Siem Reap, his name is Jhon and his WhatsApp number is +855 95 406 323. He’d be happy for the business. And he’ll tell you beautiful stories of his childhood if you ask.

I took the Giant Ibis bus from Siem Reap to Pnomh Penh. I recommend the better known bus lines if you want to be relatively secure in knowing it will actually get you there. And they’re comfortable.

Rustic digs.

Kayaking along the Kampot River.