Queen Magrethe's Tribe
What diverse aspects are within
the selfsame person? The cheery rosy-cheeked handsome Danes bicycle across
gracefully arched bridges over sparkling canals, their waters shimmering
burnished gold, sunshine orange, leafy fern green, past the splendid tall and
silent apartments that line the old cobbled streets. They pedal on, past cherry
red post boxes fixed neatly to public buildings. Yes, artistic and issued by
the government, bearing simply a crown and a bugle with a tassel and the word
Post.
They pedal on, stopping happily
at the light to chat and then proceed in the generous bike lane past Tivoli Gardens,
containing childhoods since 1843.
I do not bicycle. I walk. Slowly,
very slowly past the vertical iron bars that have interrupted my long stretch
of tall brick, or at least taller than me. This solid wall separates street
life from what lies beyond. I cannot go on. I stop gripping the bars hard,
shaking them. How can my childhood be suspended there behind bars? Jailed.
I want it back. Let me in. What
is around that bend behind the vines and in front of the roller. coaster
descending there, just barely above the bog before the lily pad pond where
trolls must live. I want in now.
I stride hastily to the corner.
The iron gate, too tall to scale in a long wool coat is padlocked.
It is January and the sign
indicates no open days soon. Not in a travelers’ time frame. One should not
stroll in bracing wind or linger under somber skies. Summer with its pleasant
winds and promise of sunshine is the time to dwell, not now. The winter sun is
peckish. Watered down and angry. Frugal.
Simply watching small birds pick
in the marsh and large swans gliding out to the waterway to feed where the woman
in the blue coat with fur collar tosses bread crumbs from the bridge, is too
much time to stand about dreaming. The hands freeze.
Still, I am halted here. Back at
the opening where I can see more deeply through a broader expanse. I cling to the
cold bars, searching among nightingales, mermaids, vines and ferns - how is it
lush? How do these fragile flowers bloom?
Searching greedily among the absurdist
statuary, cartoon giants in bright, primary colors, their thick enamel paint
chipped in odd places: the corner of an ear, a fingertip, a thigh. They give
one peculiar looks and carefully follow your motion with their gaze.
Now look, here is the roller
coaster again. The tracks rise clear to the moon. In summer the wobbly cars
will in fact ascend over the moon (jumping cows beware) and then they will descend
at a maddening speed.
Perhaps clear down to the doors
of Hell.
If Pluto allows and only if Pluto
allows, you churn slowly back to the platform.
Badly shaken, you will lift one
strange leg after the other, focusing on balance.
Your friends and your adrenalin
tell you this is glee and in a communal spree you jump off the platform to find
the next adventure.
But today Tivoli Gardens is empty
and silent. All the better.
Greedily, I search. I am here
somewhere.
A dragonfly whirs back and forth
in front of me, alternating personalities between fairy and dragon, zipping
into the gardens and back to the barred window, unable to communicate a single
intelligible notion.
The place would have to be broken
into.
Lips pursed with intent, I walk. Odd
to be plotting a crime while inhaling the sweet thick aroma of pastries from
the bakeries. Little wonder Copenhagen’s crime rate is low.
Still, it is my childhood and no son-of-a-bitch
has a right to keep it from me.
A chubby child in a pink snowsuit
waddles past looking only inside the air, her blue eyes the stuff of pure
diamonds, her aura opal. She cannot see the small curly-haired dog at the old
woman’s heel or the suited runner who lithe as a gazelle weaves between the dog
and child.
The lost art of seeing inside the
air. Cooking baked beans over a fire in the cave next to Robbs’. Teeter-tottering
with my sister. These things are there in Tivoli Gardens.
I give up. I go north to Roskilde
to see the Viking ships.
One who seldom bothers with a guide
book, my breath draws short to come upon this cathedral on a back street.
Medieval, grand, ornate. No coffer spared, its spires attenuate into Heaven.
The cathedral sprawls with
chapels built over eight hundred years, exquisite alabaster interiors housing a
melee of coffins and corpses. I study the stained-glass windows.
And then I come to the fucking
scary part. And I am talking about after seeing coffins through the windows.
It is the entrance. A pair of
black metal doors, soldered and bolted in Norse carpentry style against what,
is unclear. The entrance is generous enough for giants to come worship. And
they may well have for all I know. The Viking descendants I spotted among the
populace of Edinburgh were certainly heads above everyone else. These more
interesting tales are not in travel books, so why bother?
That door haunts me still. Its
engravings in full view of the city pedestrian are terrifying. As you are standing
there in bright daylight a skeletal wraith is bending tango-like over a smaller,
struggling corpse, yes, a corpse still struggling because the other thing is
violently sucking out its soul. Not a time to give up.
You can actually see the soul
being siphoned from the victim’s mouth to that of the victor. Not an endearing
picture.
Among other atrocities, mutilated
body parts and sharp murderous implements float within reach of any of the
morbid cast of characters depicted here.
Exhausted, I stroll downhill
toward the laconic waterside where the agile Viking ships are moored. I am
convinced now that this loveliness is a ruse of the rosy-cheeked Danes.
That and the charming little
cottages.
Where the yards all
twitter with birds ducking in and out of bushes that grow popcorn.
Don’t you want to see the birds?
All the different kinds you’ve never seen before? Linger.
Such anomalies are the stuff of
fairy tales though, aren’t they? And that is where the Danish excel, in
portraying the diverse aspects of the selfsame person.